On
Thursday 26 October, the entire kingdom of Thailand came pretty much to a stop
for the Royal Cremation Ceremonies for the late King Rama IX, Bhumibol
Adulyadej. Cinemas were mostly
closed. Most markets and stores were
closed, as were all banks, etc. (The Rock Pub was closed for at least four nights!)
Television programming covered only the ceremonies.
I
had stocked up on food the day before, and Tuk and I watched the proceedings on
TV all day into the night.
Although
the King died a year ago (13 October 2016) his mourning period was for over a
year. His body lie enclosed in an urn or
coffin at the Grand Palace for this time, and thousands of people came to pay
respect. A special temporary crematorium
was built at a nearby royal ceremonial ground. The structure was huge and elaborate, with incredible artistic touches, and built
to represent Mount Meru, the heavenly center of the world in Buddhist and Hindu
mythologies.
On
Thursday the 26th, the urn was moved, via an ornate traditional cart in a huge procession,
from the Grand Palace to the crematory site.
It was a slow march.
The
music: A military band marched along in
the funeral parade. Since King Rama IX
was a musician and a composer, some of his own compositions were mixed in with
the more somber dirges. There was even a
bit of Jazz played early on in the march.
Taps played after dark at the cremation site.
Attendees
at the ceremonies: There were dignitaries and folks from
all over the world there. There was
royalty of all sorts.
Late
in the evening, toward the time of lighting the pyre, the mood lightened up a
bit, with performances of traditional Thai dance and music out in front of the
crematorium. Then a Thai symphony
orchestra started a live concert that went on until dawn. As well as Classical standards they played
many of the late King’s own musical compositions.
I
think the entire kingdom was exhausted the next day, Friday, from the
breathless events of the previous day.
King
Bhumibol, Rama IX, will be remembered as “Father.” The Moral Father of modern Thailand. He reigned for 70 years, and although without
any political power he had immense moral authority.
He fathered the people by his caring example.
As I have written before, he never expected to be king when the monarchy was thrown into his lap by the death of his older brother, King Rama VIII. Born in Cambridge, Mass., USA, he had been a student in Lausanne, Switzerland, where he grew up, majoring in French literature, Latin, Greek, and the sciences. He was contentedly into photography and jazz music. There is a famous photo of him as king in the late '50s/ early '60s sitting, with his queen, and in conversation with Elvis Presley (Elvis was in US Army uniform at the time). I have seen this photo in Bangkok's Hard Rock Cafe and in The Saxophone pub.
He
is irreplaceable and will be sorely missed.
-Zenwind.
.
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