On the Great Chao Phraya River

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I haven’t been on the Chao Phraya River express boats for a long, long time until the other day. I haven’t been going to Bangkok as much in recent months, and when I have gone into the city I’ve taken a taxi in to at least the closest Skytrain (light commuter elevated rail) station and then a taxi back home late. I’ve been opting for the coolest rides in air conditioned comfort. I must be getting old.

Yesterday was my annual trip to the US Embassy to get a notarized document for my annual big visit to Immigration in two weeks to apply for an Extension of Stay in Thailand based on Retirement. I intended to take the boat in the morning, but I was running late and it’s hotter than Hell here, and an empty taxi happened to come by. There are no good movies playing, so after the embassy visit I made a quick bookstore run and jumped on the express boat for the afternoon trip home.

Standing outside for 10 minutes I felt like I had just taken a swim with all of my clothes on. The other day gave us a freak hard thunderstorm which made the night cool. The following morning wasn’t too bad while the clouds blocked the sun. But when the sun finally came out, all that moisture just hung heavy in the air. Sweat city, without mercy.

Looking at the city from the lowest elevation, at river level, I could see a lot of changes. Bangkok is a dynamic place. Buildings and infrastructure are going up everywhere. One new bridge for elevated rail is already finished not far down-river from us, and I got to look at the new bridge(s) closer to us. I was amazed that there are two double train track bridges being built together. These rail connections will soon make express boat travel antique, as air conditioned fast rail stations will be within walking distance to us in a couple of years.

But you cannot beat the scenery experienced from the river’s level. You see the extreme poverty of collapsing tin squatters’ shacks on stilts on the river’s edge right next to luxurious new high-rise condos going up – that’s Asia in a nutshell.

The Great Flood of 2011 still has its reminders left along the banks. Wooden structures are now showing their immense foundational decay from that deluge. And a couple of riverbank temple monasteries are finally showing their damage as debris is slowly being shoveled out of their ground floors.

Ah, I long for coolness.

-Zenwind.

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