29 October 2017

Farewell to a Great Monarch

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On Thursday 26 October, the entire kingdom of Thailand came pretty much to a stop for the Royal Cremation Ceremonies for the late King Rama IX, Bhumibol Adulyadej.  Cinemas were mostly closed.  Most markets and stores were closed, as were all banks, etc.  (The Rock Pub was closed for at least four nights!)  Television programming covered only the ceremonies. 

I had stocked up on food the day before, and Tuk and I watched the proceedings on TV all day into the night. 

Although the King died a year ago (13 October 2016) his mourning period was for over a year.  His body lie enclosed in an urn or coffin at the Grand Palace for this time, and thousands of people came to pay respect.  A special temporary crematorium was built at a nearby royal ceremonial ground.  The structure was huge and elaborate, with incredible artistic touches, and built to represent Mount Meru, the heavenly center of the world in Buddhist and Hindu mythologies. 

On Thursday the 26th, the urn was moved, via an ornate traditional cart in a huge procession, from the Grand Palace to the crematory site.  It was a slow march. 

The music:  A military band marched along in the funeral parade.  Since King Rama IX was a musician and a composer, some of his own compositions were mixed in with the more somber dirges.  There was even a bit of Jazz played early on in the march.  Taps played after dark at the cremation site. 

Attendees at the ceremonies:  There were dignitaries and folks from all over the world there.  There was royalty of all sorts. 

Late in the evening, toward the time of lighting the pyre, the mood lightened up a bit, with performances of traditional Thai dance and music out in front of the crematorium.  Then a Thai symphony orchestra started a live concert that went on until dawn.  As well as Classical standards they played many of the late King’s own musical compositions. 

I think the entire kingdom was exhausted the next day, Friday, from the breathless events of the previous day. 


King Bhumibol, Rama IX, will be remembered as “Father.”  The Moral Father of modern Thailand.  He reigned for 70 years, and although without any political power he had immense moral authority.  He fathered the people by his caring example.  

As I have written before, he never expected to be king when the monarchy was thrown into his lap by the death of his older brother, King Rama VIII.  Born in Cambridge, Mass., USA, he had been a student in Lausanne, Switzerland, where he grew up, majoring in French literature, Latin, Greek, and the sciences.  He was contentedly into photography and jazz music.  There is a famous photo of him as king in the late '50s/ early '60s sitting, with his queen, and in conversation with Elvis Presley (Elvis was in US Army uniform at the time).  I have seen this photo in Bangkok's Hard Rock Cafe and in The Saxophone pub.  

He is irreplaceable and will be sorely missed. 

-Zenwind. 

13 October 2017

October

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It has been far too long since I last wrote in this space.  (As if anyone ever reads it anyway!)   Writer’s block, I guess.  I have been reading constantly, reading randomly, reading everything, and previously there hasn’t been any real news here to report.  I have also been trying to exercise regularly, and this often takes up most of my energy reserves and my most productive hours of the day. 

But today in Thailand it is the one-year anniversary of the death of our beloved long-reigning King Rama 9 (1927-2016; r.1946-2016). This October is a full month of mourning.  Royal cremation will be this coming 26 October.  Everyone has been wearing black all year, and I have worn black clothes every day since returning to Thailand in December last.  I was in the USA last year when the King died, and I bought up a lot of black clothing then.  I have great respect for the late King.  He had no political power but he had immense moral authority. 

Today Thai television has had extensive coverage of the ongoing royal ceremonies.  The bars are all closed, and the country has shut down in many ways.  The ceremonies involve harmonic chanting in Pali by the senior monks, and it is very soothing. 

One movie that was shown on TV today was of special significance to the memory of the late King:  Hachi:  a dog’s story (2009), starring Richard Gere and Joan Allen.  It is depicted in contemporary America but based on a true story in early 20th century Japan, about the loyalty of a dog to his deceased master.  The late King had a special love for dogs and the bonds they often have with humans, often adopting homeless dogs himself.  He wrote an inspiring book on just such a homeless dog.  This movie was especially appropriate today.  Although I had never seen this movie before, and we watched it in Thai language only and without English subtitles, the story was clear, and it was a tear-jerker. 

The remainder of this month will be somber, and the days around the cremation on the 26th will see a shutdown of all normal revelry.  The entire nation will pause. 

In other news:  there is a bit of a flooding threat at present, but I don’t see our neighboring national electric company taking any special measures, such the intensive sand-bagging they did before our Great Flood of 2011 disaster, so I’m not terribly worried at the moment.  The most we could lose is my new heavy treadmill on the ground floor, too heavy to move up.  Many communities up-country have been flooded, but as this is considered to be “normal” not a lot has been done about it.  The government only freaks out completely when Bangkok itself is flooded, and even then they don’t know what the hell to do about it.  (“Government:  What is it good for?  Absolutely nothing!  Say it again….”) 

I will try to post here more often. 

-Zenwind.

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