31 August 2020

Songkran Holiday Substitution

This coming weekend will be a four-day one to make up for April’s Songkran (traditional Thai New Year) holiday being canceled because of the Covid-19 lockdown.  So, they have officially substituted next Friday and Monday as holidays.  Thais do love their holidays, and there will be a mass exit of people out of the city on Thursday, going back to their home provinces to see relatives.  They will start trickling back Monday or Tuesday.  Or whenever. 

I’m recovering from a bout of FMS that has made it difficult to walk my normal distances.  But I’m now On The Road Again (as in the title of a couple of old Blues songs from my youth). 

-Zenwind.  

22 August 2020

Rainy Normal

 

Not much news to report here.  It rains a bit every day, but it’s not a heavy monsoon this year so far.  The clouds are a blessing when they do block the sun, and we do often get unexpected breezes that are a brief relief. 

 

I went into the city last week for a movie and then my libertarian meetup group.  It is always great to talk with my friends there, and we had a great discussion with a couple of new members.  Because tourism in Thailand is basically stopped these days, I am usually always the only farang around in most places I go.  I will admit that it is nice to have public venues and transport thus so uncrowded. 

 

I faithfully wear a mask outside and follow all public sanitary guidelines, since I fear that Thais look at us westerners as “dirty farangs” because of the horrific virus toll in Europe and America.  I believe that they now perceive us as reckless, uncaring of our neighbors and dirty, so I try to show my respect and politeness to an extreme.  As a stranger in a strange land, I tread carefully. 

 

I relish the peace and quiet I have here.  It fits my solitary nature and lets me meditate at ease on samsara and the dharma. 


-Zenwind. 

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23 July 2020

New Normal in Bangkok


Beyond my immediate neighborhood, I ventured into the city again on Thursday last week to meet my libertarian friends, one of the events I most look forward to.  I time my travel on such adventures to avoid all rush hours on public transit and any crowds in movie theaters.  (I don’t ever do weekend crowds if I can help it; I’m a lifelong misanthrope of sorts, a loner.)  The trains were not packed, and, in the theaters, there were at most two other people in the entire room.  Restaurants and pubs follow our New Normal safety rules during this Plague Era, as do all the above services.  Masks; track and trace registration, etc. 

And live music at The Rock Pub, once again.  This last Thursday I could only arrive late on my way home before closing, and I hoped to hear at least some music.  I sure did!  Mundee was the closing act.  The crowd was small – as it quite often has been on Thursday nights in the past – but the band was hot and I really wanted to hear as much as possible from this favorite band of mine. 

Recognizing me as I came in the door, they played one they knew was a personal favorite of mine: “Here I Go Again” by Whitesnake (a power-ballad from the 1980s).  This song was on the radio at a time when I had my first hope of escape from the bondage of an unbearable relationship.  It helped give me the courage to eventually strike out into freedom: 

“Here I go again on my own,
  Goin’ down the only road I’ve ever known,
  Like a drifter I was born to walk alone. 
  I’ve made up my mind,
  I ain’t wasting no more time.” 

Next, they played an excellent Led Zeppelin favorite from the very early 1970s.  Then, they asked for requests from the small crowd, and, not wanting to hog the show with a Zeppelin monopoly, I shouted, “AC/DC.”  They played “Highway to Hell”, in a great rocking rendition.  Then they played Zeppelin again with “The Immigrant Song” (“Valhalla, I am coming!”).  Next to last was “Sunshine of Your Love” by Cream, a great favorite from my teenage years.  They finished the night with Zeppelin’s “Rock and Roll”, which everyone at the Rock Pub knows is my all-time favorite since the song encompasses the entire span of historical Rock experience – “It’s been a long time since I Rock and Rolled....” 

It was one of the greatest live sets I’ve ever heard – worthy of Valhalla. 

-Zenwind. 
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11 July 2020

Live Rock n Roll Once Again!


As Led Zeppelin famously observed:
“It's been a long time since I Rock and Rolled, . . . 
"It's been a long time, been a long time,
Been a long lonely, lonely, lonely, lonely, lonely time.
Yes it has.” 

Oh, Yeah!  The Rock Pub is finally open again!  I attended the first opening night gig there on 2 July.  As I was the first customer in the door to this long-delayed re-opening gig, proprietor Luke Tao took my photo and posted it on the Facebook page of The Rock Pub, Bangkok’s House of Rock, for 2 July.  Jimmy Revolt played the song they know I like, “Rock and Roll” (above).  I attended again on 9 July and Mundee played Zeppelin’s “Immigrant Song”; and because I’ve always felt like an immigrant – an eternal wandering exile – it thrilled me to the core:  “Valhalla, I am coming!” 

In the cinema, I saw Mr. Jones (2019), an outstanding low-budget biopic depicting the true story of journalist Gareth Jones discovering the massive horror of the man-made famine/ genocide of millions of Ukrainians/ Russians in the early 1930s by official policy of the Union of Socialist Soviet Republics.  Integral to this history is how the genocide was systematically covered up by the New York Times man-in-Moscow, Walter Duranty, the apologist for Stalin.  Duranty’s lies persuaded Western governments (e.g., FDR) to think that Marxian socialism was benign.  To be humane, this film should be more widely known. 

Theaters and pubs have strict social distancing.  Mass transit now is back to normal while masks are still mandatory – yet I found traditional rush hour to be far from the crowded mad crush of the past, maybe because all incoming tourism has long been shut off.  Come to think of it, now I see that I am almost the only farang on the trains, an immigrant, in exile. 

-Zenwind. 
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07 July 2020

Asalha Puja


This past extended full-Moon weekend has marked Asalha Puja, commemorating the Buddha’s First Discourse, in which he laid out his most basic recommendations:  the Four Tasks and the Eightfold Path.  This day is followed by the start of the Rains Retreat in Theravada countries, where, traditionally, the Rainy Season forces monks to stay in one place and contemplate. 

I hold the Buddha’s First Discourse to be one of the most important pieces of wisdom to me personally – in a lifetime of study in philosophy, psychology, comparative religion, history, etc. – and now I re-read it again along with commentary, learning its deep psychological insights anew.  As a secular Buddhist, I find Stephen Batchelor’s work on this to be most significant.  His 20-page essay, “A Secular Buddhism” (2012) opened up healing possibilities that I wish I had had 50 years ago.  I am happy to now finally be reading his major work expanding on these insights, After Buddhism:  Re-thinking the dharma in a secular age (2015).  It’s a new world, and I am refreshed.  Blessed coolness, Zen delight! 

-Zenwind. 
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29 June 2020

Into the City


Today I took the trains into the city, to my favorite premier department store, Siam Paragon, for the first time since this Plague Era began so long ago.  I desperately need to acquire a new tablet computer since my ancient faithful Sony Xperia Z3 Tablet Compact has died – after many, many years of service as a lightweight, waterproof Internet connection (at an 8-inch display) midway between a phone and a laptop.  It was a phenomenally great device that served me so well, and I’m struggling to find a replacement.  But no luck yet with that. 

The great shock at Siam Paragon was how empty it was.  Spooky.  I saw immediately that there were no “farang” around, no foreign tourists.  Everybody was Thai except for me.  And all of us wore a face mask, without exception. 

Face masks are mandatory on public transit and in public market interfaces.  Although we haven’t had a domestic infection in over a month, we still follow the guidelines.  Because of my face mask, my eyeglasses fog up continually in the a/c environment on the trains, in the malls and in each individual store.  Frustrating. 

I just got word today that the pubs are conditionally re-opening, with strict guidelines.  I have sent in my reservations for the limited seating in the first two nights of The Rock Pub’s re-opening this week.  Hope to once again hear great live Rock n Roll!  “It’s been a long time -- a long lonely, lonely, lonely time!” 

-Zenwind. 
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24 June 2020

Recent Outings & Observations


Last week I went to my first libertarian meet-up in months, and had a great time talking with a few old friends.  My voice was hoarse the next day – ain’t used to it!  The restaurant followed all the re-opening sanitation rules (e.g., check in and out with the easy “ThaiChana” track and trace system, hand sanitizer, masks, etc.) and it was not crowded.  Nor were the sidewalks during my walk there, which are usually full of people. 

I had earlier seen a couple of movies in the theater for the first time in ages.  (I do love the big screen, and as a senior I get half-price.)  The same registering and distancing rules were also strictly followed there.  The trains going into the city and then out were not crowded, but of course I always avoid rush hours, coming in at midday and out before midnight. 

Yesterday, I went to the closest mall – actually a five-floor venue they call a “department store” – for their Tops Market, some DVDs, and also a movie.  Every single person there wore a face-mask, even the toddlers.  ThaiChana registration via QR code was mandatory for entering the mall and again for each individual store.  It is easy to forget to register your exit, but next time you look at your phone you can finish that. 

On my renewed neighborhood walks/marches, I don’t see much difference from days gone by, except that almost everyone today wears a face-mask, even outside.  A few don’t, but that’s rare.  Marching with a mask is hot and horrible, so when I’m walking a stretch with no people around, I pull the mask down to my chin to get air.  When coming to places with people, I slip the mask back up over my nose and mouth again – it is to be polite to my neighbors.  Since the most horrendous death tolls have been in Europe and the USA, many Thais consider Westerners to be “dirty farangs”, too stupid, unhygienic, careless, or disrespectful to wear masks.  I live here, so I try to show neighborliness by my mask, but also by registering via ThaiChana going into every neighborhood store – even if many local Thais are already starting to skip that.  

-Zenwind. 
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08 June 2020

Marching Again, like Sisyphus up the Mountain


Finally, today I started marching again, stepping out briskly on my “long loop” neighborhood walking route by the river.  (Of course, I still wear a facemask, a more comfortable surgical one now, out of politeness for my neighbors.)  There is another more direct walking route – which I always take when despicably lazy – straight down the street a klick-and-a-half to my pharmacy, to Yanhee Hospital, and my English-speaking Thai friend who makes key copies on the sidewalk nearby.  The long river loop adds about two kilometers to the walk, but it is more scenic and is much more conducive to exercise. 

It’s been weeks and weeks – months actually – since I last strode these long-loop sidewalks.  First off, in January and February the winter toxic smog (which I’ve written of earlier) made it necessary to wear N95 facemasks to filter out the PM-2.5 particles, and it is extremely hard to breathe through those when exercising rigorously.  Exhausting and hot, discouraging activity of any kind.  Then the Covid-19 lockdown started, coinciding with the intense Hot Season.  I even stopped my weight training routine with dumbbells two months ago (until re-starting it again just three days ago), and it’s long been far too hot to use my home treadmill. 

In the early stretches of my long river loop march today, I saw old neighbors I hadn’t seen in so long, and we happily waved and smiled as I cruised on by.  Good folks.  Arriving at the Chao Phraya River, I had forgotten how cool it is under the broad Rama 7 Bridge with the shade and constant breeze.  (Blessed coolness, Zen delight!)  The river is quite low at the end of the long dry season, but it will fill up in coming months. 

About one klick into my long-loop march, I started to feel stresses and soreness in various leg muscles.  I realized that walking this loop uses different muscles in different ways, and I’m not used to that.  All my walking in the last couple of months has been just short saunters to stores in my immediate area, and it involves stopping frequently to wait for traffic to clear and slowly weaving through crowded sidewalks with vendors set up, and at no time have I been able to really step out in full uninterrupted stride.  But today, I was again on terrain where I am psychologically accustomed to full-out marching – Ooh Rah! – long rapid strides at as fast a pace as possible – no traffic crossings or obstacles to slow my progress. 

I stretched my legs; I ain’t used to it; and I’m going to be terribly sore for days and days.  As one gets older (and I’m 70), it is harder to recover from inactivity, and it seems like an ever-steeper uphill climb to win back that fitness.  Sisyphus would understand, as he shoulders his rock up the mountain in his eternal task.  Another ancient said in another context, “The spirit is indeed willing, but the flesh is weak.”  The Buddha said that life is Dukkha, recommended that it’s best we embrace that fact while letting go of negative reactions to it, but that joy is possible.  More modern sages, The Rolling Stones, sang, “What a drag it is getting old...”.  Others, “What a long strange trip it’s been!” 

Although the tendency of ageing’s physical weakening and deterioration goes inexorably in one downward direction, the opportunities for intellectual, emotional, and spiritual ripening and fulfillment can go in another direction altogether.  The pinnacles of a lifetime of learning and of drawing on rich deep experience can coalesce into a profound joy – much like the portrayal of Sisyphus (that Camus gives us), at the moment when he turns around on the summit to walk back down the mountain to retrieve his rock again in his never-ending agonizing task.  Sisyphus, momentarily relieved of his upward struggle yet knowing that he will have to continue it soon, can look at the world below him at this moment and take in the complete view (which is also, perhaps coincidently, the first step on the Eightfold Path). 

I’ve read a bit – yet never as much as I’d like – and there are a few distinct pinnacles I’ve glimpsed, many of them being perennial stuff from my youth.  Emerson’s essay, Self-Reliance, said, “Trust thyself.  Every heart vibrates to that iron string.”  When hitchhiking in 1968 after liberation from that grueling 12-year-sentence of public schooling, I carried a small copy of this essay in my pocket everywhere I roamed that entire summer. 

But one quote from an immigrant refugee from totalitarianism who found the promise of a better life in America sums it all up better than others for me:
“To hold an unchanging youth is to reach, at the end, the vision with which one started.” 

I first read that over half a century ago, and I was awed at the time by the notion of steadfast idealism and personal achievement it expressed.  It rings truer as I age. 

I always find it hard to believe that I am an “old man”, even if my body is no longer strong.  The spirit of youth has never left me, and my unchanging vision – Personal Freedom – is right here now.  At this stage, it is doubtful if I’ll ever “grow up”.  What’s the point? 

-Zenwind. 
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02 June 2020

The Rains


At last we are getting some fairly regular rain.  It blocks the sun and cools the air a bit, although the steamy damp is always with us.  Our high temperatures look to be in the mid-90s rather than 100*F (for now), and the lows in the lower-80s.  I’ve had to change my night sleep-time routines, by covering my bare legs with a blanket – although leaving my feet exposed lest that be too hot. 

We always have fans blowing on us at night, all year, mostly to keep mosquitoes from preying upon us.  Even in the hottest times of year, I cover my neck and throat because Tuk often turns on a powerful fan unexpectedly during the night.  I often wear a very light-weight wicking turtleneck and shorts at these times.  Tonight, I will break out my long pajama pants once again instead of the blanket.  I haven’t worn socks in years.  I have started turning off our (weak) a/c after midnight. 

Mosquitoes in this Rainy season pose the most danger of Dengue Fever, which regularly kills more Thais every year than has the Covid-19 virus so far.  The mosquitoes carrying this disease prey upon you mostly at twilight, throughout the night, at dawn and early morning, but even throughout the daytime.  We burn mosquito coils at doorways most nights of the year. 

(Hint:  the best way to burn mosquito coils is in steel bowls that have lids; this safely contains the burning coils, and you can put the lid on to extinguish the coil and save it for another time; get a lidded steel bowl about six or seven inches in diameter.) 

Malaria is no longer a problem in most of Thailand, only up in Kanchanaburi province on the Burmese border near Three Pagoda Pass where the WW2 Death Railway was – the Bridge over the River Kwai.  But Dengue is the malady to watch out for elsewhere here.  

-Zenwind. 
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31 May 2020

Track & Trace in the Age of Covid-19


During our current pandemic Emergency Degree regimen, in this most recent re-opening phase, our malls/department stores have opened again, albeit with extremely strict hygienic protocols.  Some of the government controls have given me some pause.  There is a bit of dialectic tension here that has conflicted me.  

The track and trace plan here in our Age of Covid-19 is a very efficient system to monitor virus transmissions and to track, trace and do any necessary quarantines.  And since such track and trace policies have been proven to be extremely effective – think, South Korea and Germany (look at their record of minimizing deaths) – it makes sense for panicked governments to use them. 

Here in Thailand, track and trace now consists of two options if you want to do any commerce with most major merchants.  One, install a common QR-code reader on your smartphone so you can quickly scan their QR-code to register that you are entering a mall, or an individual store within it, or most of the convenience stores and markets, and then recording when you exit.  Or, two, you must write down on a sheet of paper your name and phone number as well as your time of entry and exit from the store.  In either case, you leave a record (name, phone number, time of entry and exit) of where you were in crowded public venues so that you can be contacted (tracked and traced) in case a person in the same store as you at the same time has been confirmed as being infected with Covid-19.  It tracks down the disease and its transmission routes very well. 

However, the core anti-authoritarian part of my soul, deeply grounded within my principal identity since I was a toddler, bristles and rebels at the very thought of such government snooping.  I do NOT trust any governments.  Governments have a distinct perennial track record of abusing powers given to them in the panic of dire emergencies and never giving back any freedoms or privacy after normality returns.  Powers derived from such crises are a fascist’s wet dream (as it is with all their authoritarian fellow-collectivist socialist cousins). 

Yet – in this eternal dialectic – as a 70-year-old penniless expat living in powerless exile in a foreign land and accustomed to compromising with political controls here which are not limited by any constitutional constraints or bills of rights, I know that I sometimes have to ignore my principles and relax in order to live a life free of unnecessary  hassle.  Hermit serenity maintained (but at what cost to my integrity?). 

My decision to cooperate with the new track and trace orthodoxy here evolved thusly this last week.  I went to my local store, and after they routinely took my temperature with an electronic sensor, they directed me to a table with a pen and book, where I had to write my name, phone number, and times of entry and exit.  I realized immediately that this was exceedingly tedious, and that such rigamarole, at every single store, every single day, at every transaction, serves only to seriously disrupt my zen.  I have better things to do with my precious moments of consciousness than to fill out time-consuming bureaucratic paperwork forms.  A smoother, faster, less distracting way of fulfilling these (intrusive) track and trace requirements would be welcomed – and the QR-code reader option is that.  So, I surrendered.  I acquired QR-code reader capability for my phone.  After all, it only records your phone number and times and places of public intercourse – (oh, is that all, really?  Forgive my skepticism!). 

Next day, I visited my local store and tried out the reader and scanned the QR-code at the store’s door.  I clicked “checked in”, and after exiting the store, I scanned their QR-code again and clicked “checked out”.  The day after that, I taxied to newly re-opened Central Pinklao mall for some essentials I cannot get elsewhere, e.g.:  a robust umbrella for the oncoming Rainy Season; DVDs from the finally re-opened DVD store there; and Tops Market stuff like cheeses and other imported foods.  My QR-code reader worked well.  I scanned the mall’s code to enter (and again to eventually exit), and the same at each individual store in the mall – the DVD shop, the umbrella store, and the Tops Market.  It was simple and fast.  The Thai workers who were manning the entrances seemed to be very appreciative of my cooperation. 

So, have I betrayed my principles of sovereign individual rights – my privacy – and bowed down in humble submission to the almighty State?  Most probably I have, a bit.  I have compromised.  As part of a poor excuse, I will say that, at my age, I don’t have time to storm the barricades for my ideals when there will be very little success achieved, while I do have other important values pressing immediately on my limited time.  I have so many books yet to read, reviews to write, personal correspondence to answer, etc.  I need to streamline and filter out life’s distractions.  And I also need to participate in daily market life here. 

While being a lifelong individualist, ethically and politically, I still may be able to explain my behavior by reference to my early training in Boy Scout virtues.  Scouting taught me self-actualization and self-reliance, striving for and achieving personal ideals and goals, and yet one required Merit Badge was “Citizenship in the Community”.  Scouting taught me about an additional consideration for my neighbors.  And, I am also a military veteran, with those acquired brotherhood virtues, forged in fire, that acknowledge that there are times when it is cooperative teamwork that is necessary to get all of us through extreme chaos and danger.  Cooperation with track and trace today seems like a civil way to act and to also protect myself, my family and my neighbors.  It is polite and is conducive to harmonious life in one’s community.  Today, I wear a mask, and I track and trace. 

Yet, at the same time I am, and always have been, unapologetically selfish, always striving after my own peace of mind, my own elusive personal nirvana.  (For over half a century, I’ve always been more Hinayana than Mahayana!)  And, no, being selfish does NOT exclude caring for others.  (Can you see this dialectic’s ongoing progression?)  

This pandemic is a storm of dukkha upon us all, and as Aristotle – really more of an ethical individualist at heart than he’s given credit for – said, we are still social beings living together.  My own self-interest shouldn’t conflict fundamentally with being civil, polite and cooperative in weathering this storm together with my community, upon which we all mutually depend. 

Post Script:  A novel relevant to our Age of Covid-19:  The Plague (1947) by Albert Camus.  It’s a classic that I highly recommend. 

-Zenwind. 
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