29 June 2020

Into the City


Today I took the trains into the city, to my favorite premier department store, Siam Paragon, for the first time since this Plague Era began so long ago.  I desperately need to acquire a new tablet computer since my ancient faithful Sony Xperia Z3 Tablet Compact has died – after many, many years of service as a lightweight, waterproof Internet connection (at an 8-inch display) midway between a phone and a laptop.  It was a phenomenally great device that served me so well, and I’m struggling to find a replacement.  But no luck yet with that. 

The great shock at Siam Paragon was how empty it was.  Spooky.  I saw immediately that there were no “farang” around, no foreign tourists.  Everybody was Thai except for me.  And all of us wore a face mask, without exception. 

Face masks are mandatory on public transit and in public market interfaces.  Although we haven’t had a domestic infection in over a month, we still follow the guidelines.  Because of my face mask, my eyeglasses fog up continually in the a/c environment on the trains, in the malls and in each individual store.  Frustrating. 

I just got word today that the pubs are conditionally re-opening, with strict guidelines.  I have sent in my reservations for the limited seating in the first two nights of The Rock Pub’s re-opening this week.  Hope to once again hear great live Rock n Roll!  “It’s been a long time -- a long lonely, lonely, lonely time!” 

-Zenwind. 
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24 June 2020

Recent Outings & Observations


Last week I went to my first libertarian meet-up in months, and had a great time talking with a few old friends.  My voice was hoarse the next day – ain’t used to it!  The restaurant followed all the re-opening sanitation rules (e.g., check in and out with the easy “ThaiChana” track and trace system, hand sanitizer, masks, etc.) and it was not crowded.  Nor were the sidewalks during my walk there, which are usually full of people. 

I had earlier seen a couple of movies in the theater for the first time in ages.  (I do love the big screen, and as a senior I get half-price.)  The same registering and distancing rules were also strictly followed there.  The trains going into the city and then out were not crowded, but of course I always avoid rush hours, coming in at midday and out before midnight. 

Yesterday, I went to the closest mall – actually a five-floor venue they call a “department store” – for their Tops Market, some DVDs, and also a movie.  Every single person there wore a face-mask, even the toddlers.  ThaiChana registration via QR code was mandatory for entering the mall and again for each individual store.  It is easy to forget to register your exit, but next time you look at your phone you can finish that. 

On my renewed neighborhood walks/marches, I don’t see much difference from days gone by, except that almost everyone today wears a face-mask, even outside.  A few don’t, but that’s rare.  Marching with a mask is hot and horrible, so when I’m walking a stretch with no people around, I pull the mask down to my chin to get air.  When coming to places with people, I slip the mask back up over my nose and mouth again – it is to be polite to my neighbors.  Since the most horrendous death tolls have been in Europe and the USA, many Thais consider Westerners to be “dirty farangs”, too stupid, unhygienic, careless, or disrespectful to wear masks.  I live here, so I try to show neighborliness by my mask, but also by registering via ThaiChana going into every neighborhood store – even if many local Thais are already starting to skip that.  

-Zenwind. 
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08 June 2020

Marching Again, like Sisyphus up the Mountain


Finally, today I started marching again, stepping out briskly on my “long loop” neighborhood walking route by the river.  (Of course, I still wear a facemask, a more comfortable surgical one now, out of politeness for my neighbors.)  There is another more direct walking route – which I always take when despicably lazy – straight down the street a klick-and-a-half to my pharmacy, to Yanhee Hospital, and my English-speaking Thai friend who makes key copies on the sidewalk nearby.  The long river loop adds about two kilometers to the walk, but it is more scenic and is much more conducive to exercise. 

It’s been weeks and weeks – months actually – since I last strode these long-loop sidewalks.  First off, in January and February the winter toxic smog (which I’ve written of earlier) made it necessary to wear N95 facemasks to filter out the PM-2.5 particles, and it is extremely hard to breathe through those when exercising rigorously.  Exhausting and hot, discouraging activity of any kind.  Then the Covid-19 lockdown started, coinciding with the intense Hot Season.  I even stopped my weight training routine with dumbbells two months ago (until re-starting it again just three days ago), and it’s long been far too hot to use my home treadmill. 

In the early stretches of my long river loop march today, I saw old neighbors I hadn’t seen in so long, and we happily waved and smiled as I cruised on by.  Good folks.  Arriving at the Chao Phraya River, I had forgotten how cool it is under the broad Rama 7 Bridge with the shade and constant breeze.  (Blessed coolness, Zen delight!)  The river is quite low at the end of the long dry season, but it will fill up in coming months. 

About one klick into my long-loop march, I started to feel stresses and soreness in various leg muscles.  I realized that walking this loop uses different muscles in different ways, and I’m not used to that.  All my walking in the last couple of months has been just short saunters to stores in my immediate area, and it involves stopping frequently to wait for traffic to clear and slowly weaving through crowded sidewalks with vendors set up, and at no time have I been able to really step out in full uninterrupted stride.  But today, I was again on terrain where I am psychologically accustomed to full-out marching – Ooh Rah! – long rapid strides at as fast a pace as possible – no traffic crossings or obstacles to slow my progress. 

I stretched my legs; I ain’t used to it; and I’m going to be terribly sore for days and days.  As one gets older (and I’m 70), it is harder to recover from inactivity, and it seems like an ever-steeper uphill climb to win back that fitness.  Sisyphus would understand, as he shoulders his rock up the mountain in his eternal task.  Another ancient said in another context, “The spirit is indeed willing, but the flesh is weak.”  The Buddha said that life is Dukkha, recommended that it’s best we embrace that fact while letting go of negative reactions to it, but that joy is possible.  More modern sages, The Rolling Stones, sang, “What a drag it is getting old...”.  Others, “What a long strange trip it’s been!” 

Although the tendency of ageing’s physical weakening and deterioration goes inexorably in one downward direction, the opportunities for intellectual, emotional, and spiritual ripening and fulfillment can go in another direction altogether.  The pinnacles of a lifetime of learning and of drawing on rich deep experience can coalesce into a profound joy – much like the portrayal of Sisyphus (that Camus gives us), at the moment when he turns around on the summit to walk back down the mountain to retrieve his rock again in his never-ending agonizing task.  Sisyphus, momentarily relieved of his upward struggle yet knowing that he will have to continue it soon, can look at the world below him at this moment and take in the complete view (which is also, perhaps coincidently, the first step on the Eightfold Path). 

I’ve read a bit – yet never as much as I’d like – and there are a few distinct pinnacles I’ve glimpsed, many of them being perennial stuff from my youth.  Emerson’s essay, Self-Reliance, said, “Trust thyself.  Every heart vibrates to that iron string.”  When hitchhiking in 1968 after liberation from that grueling 12-year-sentence of public schooling, I carried a small copy of this essay in my pocket everywhere I roamed that entire summer. 

But one quote from an immigrant refugee from totalitarianism who found the promise of a better life in America sums it all up better than others for me:
“To hold an unchanging youth is to reach, at the end, the vision with which one started.” 

I first read that over half a century ago, and I was awed at the time by the notion of steadfast idealism and personal achievement it expressed.  It rings truer as I age. 

I always find it hard to believe that I am an “old man”, even if my body is no longer strong.  The spirit of youth has never left me, and my unchanging vision – Personal Freedom – is right here now.  At this stage, it is doubtful if I’ll ever “grow up”.  What’s the point? 

-Zenwind. 
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02 June 2020

The Rains


At last we are getting some fairly regular rain.  It blocks the sun and cools the air a bit, although the steamy damp is always with us.  Our high temperatures look to be in the mid-90s rather than 100*F (for now), and the lows in the lower-80s.  I’ve had to change my night sleep-time routines, by covering my bare legs with a blanket – although leaving my feet exposed lest that be too hot. 

We always have fans blowing on us at night, all year, mostly to keep mosquitoes from preying upon us.  Even in the hottest times of year, I cover my neck and throat because Tuk often turns on a powerful fan unexpectedly during the night.  I often wear a very light-weight wicking turtleneck and shorts at these times.  Tonight, I will break out my long pajama pants once again instead of the blanket.  I haven’t worn socks in years.  I have started turning off our (weak) a/c after midnight. 

Mosquitoes in this Rainy season pose the most danger of Dengue Fever, which regularly kills more Thais every year than has the Covid-19 virus so far.  The mosquitoes carrying this disease prey upon you mostly at twilight, throughout the night, at dawn and early morning, but even throughout the daytime.  We burn mosquito coils at doorways most nights of the year. 

(Hint:  the best way to burn mosquito coils is in steel bowls that have lids; this safely contains the burning coils, and you can put the lid on to extinguish the coil and save it for another time; get a lidded steel bowl about six or seven inches in diameter.) 

Malaria is no longer a problem in most of Thailand, only up in Kanchanaburi province on the Burmese border near Three Pagoda Pass where the WW2 Death Railway was – the Bridge over the River Kwai.  But Dengue is the malady to watch out for elsewhere here.  

-Zenwind. 
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31 May 2020

Track & Trace in the Age of Covid-19


During our current pandemic Emergency Degree regimen, in this most recent re-opening phase, our malls/department stores have opened again, albeit with extremely strict hygienic protocols.  Some of the government controls have given me some pause.  There is a bit of dialectic tension here that has conflicted me.  

The track and trace plan here in our Age of Covid-19 is a very efficient system to monitor virus transmissions and to track, trace and do any necessary quarantines.  And since such track and trace policies have been proven to be extremely effective – think, South Korea and Germany (look at their record of minimizing deaths) – it makes sense for panicked governments to use them. 

Here in Thailand, track and trace now consists of two options if you want to do any commerce with most major merchants.  One, install a common QR-code reader on your smartphone so you can quickly scan their QR-code to register that you are entering a mall, or an individual store within it, or most of the convenience stores and markets, and then recording when you exit.  Or, two, you must write down on a sheet of paper your name and phone number as well as your time of entry and exit from the store.  In either case, you leave a record (name, phone number, time of entry and exit) of where you were in crowded public venues so that you can be contacted (tracked and traced) in case a person in the same store as you at the same time has been confirmed as being infected with Covid-19.  It tracks down the disease and its transmission routes very well. 

However, the core anti-authoritarian part of my soul, deeply grounded within my principal identity since I was a toddler, bristles and rebels at the very thought of such government snooping.  I do NOT trust any governments.  Governments have a distinct perennial track record of abusing powers given to them in the panic of dire emergencies and never giving back any freedoms or privacy after normality returns.  Powers derived from such crises are a fascist’s wet dream (as it is with all their authoritarian fellow-collectivist socialist cousins). 

Yet – in this eternal dialectic – as a 70-year-old penniless expat living in powerless exile in a foreign land and accustomed to compromising with political controls here which are not limited by any constitutional constraints or bills of rights, I know that I sometimes have to ignore my principles and relax in order to live a life free of unnecessary  hassle.  Hermit serenity maintained (but at what cost to my integrity?). 

My decision to cooperate with the new track and trace orthodoxy here evolved thusly this last week.  I went to my local store, and after they routinely took my temperature with an electronic sensor, they directed me to a table with a pen and book, where I had to write my name, phone number, and times of entry and exit.  I realized immediately that this was exceedingly tedious, and that such rigamarole, at every single store, every single day, at every transaction, serves only to seriously disrupt my zen.  I have better things to do with my precious moments of consciousness than to fill out time-consuming bureaucratic paperwork forms.  A smoother, faster, less distracting way of fulfilling these (intrusive) track and trace requirements would be welcomed – and the QR-code reader option is that.  So, I surrendered.  I acquired QR-code reader capability for my phone.  After all, it only records your phone number and times and places of public intercourse – (oh, is that all, really?  Forgive my skepticism!). 

Next day, I visited my local store and tried out the reader and scanned the QR-code at the store’s door.  I clicked “checked in”, and after exiting the store, I scanned their QR-code again and clicked “checked out”.  The day after that, I taxied to newly re-opened Central Pinklao mall for some essentials I cannot get elsewhere, e.g.:  a robust umbrella for the oncoming Rainy Season; DVDs from the finally re-opened DVD store there; and Tops Market stuff like cheeses and other imported foods.  My QR-code reader worked well.  I scanned the mall’s code to enter (and again to eventually exit), and the same at each individual store in the mall – the DVD shop, the umbrella store, and the Tops Market.  It was simple and fast.  The Thai workers who were manning the entrances seemed to be very appreciative of my cooperation. 

So, have I betrayed my principles of sovereign individual rights – my privacy – and bowed down in humble submission to the almighty State?  Most probably I have, a bit.  I have compromised.  As part of a poor excuse, I will say that, at my age, I don’t have time to storm the barricades for my ideals when there will be very little success achieved, while I do have other important values pressing immediately on my limited time.  I have so many books yet to read, reviews to write, personal correspondence to answer, etc.  I need to streamline and filter out life’s distractions.  And I also need to participate in daily market life here. 

While being a lifelong individualist, ethically and politically, I still may be able to explain my behavior by reference to my early training in Boy Scout virtues.  Scouting taught me self-actualization and self-reliance, striving for and achieving personal ideals and goals, and yet one required Merit Badge was “Citizenship in the Community”.  Scouting taught me about an additional consideration for my neighbors.  And, I am also a military veteran, with those acquired brotherhood virtues, forged in fire, that acknowledge that there are times when it is cooperative teamwork that is necessary to get all of us through extreme chaos and danger.  Cooperation with track and trace today seems like a civil way to act and to also protect myself, my family and my neighbors.  It is polite and is conducive to harmonious life in one’s community.  Today, I wear a mask, and I track and trace. 

Yet, at the same time I am, and always have been, unapologetically selfish, always striving after my own peace of mind, my own elusive personal nirvana.  (For over half a century, I’ve always been more Hinayana than Mahayana!)  And, no, being selfish does NOT exclude caring for others.  (Can you see this dialectic’s ongoing progression?)  

This pandemic is a storm of dukkha upon us all, and as Aristotle – really more of an ethical individualist at heart than he’s given credit for – said, we are still social beings living together.  My own self-interest shouldn’t conflict fundamentally with being civil, polite and cooperative in weathering this storm together with my community, upon which we all mutually depend. 

Post Script:  A novel relevant to our Age of Covid-19:  The Plague (1947) by Albert Camus.  It’s a classic that I highly recommend. 

-Zenwind. 
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21 May 2020

Slowly Re-Opening Society


This week, Thailand entered another measured, two-week, carefully phased, partial re-opening of the lockdown we have been under for so long.  Malls and department stores are now open, under strict social-distancing rules, and of course everyone wears a mask, everywhere.  We’ll see how this goes.  Pubs, cinemas, and sports venues are still closed.  (Boxing stadiums had some of the worst super-spreader hotspots here during the early phase of the pandemic.) 

After the previous two-week phase of re-opening, there was still a continuing decline in rates of Covid-19 infections, hospitalizations, and deaths.  The number of corona virus deaths in Thailand since the very beginning of this epidemic have only been 56 total thus far, despite the fact that Thailand had the first confirmed infection outside China back in January.  One death statistic has up-ticked – since the recent relaxation of travel restrictions, the Thai highway death toll has shot up in the direction of its gruesome normal.  We consistently have one of the highest per capita road death rates in the world (one year Thailand came in second only to Libya, and they were having a raging civil war at the time).  

Today I went by taxi to my Immigration Office on business, and the roads were thankfully not too crowded.  In the big room at immigration, there were only a dozen people, all spread out and masked.  People seem even more polite than the traditional Thai norm these days. 

I have stayed in my home neighborhood and rarely venture out.  For one thing, it is still too damned hot to go anywhere.  100*F everyday with wilting humidity.  I try to go out and am blinded by stinging sweat in my eyes.  May the cooling rains come!  Soon! 

-Zenwind. 
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13 May 2020

Royal Ploughing Ceremony


This last Monday, May 11, was the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony and also the day I finally got an appointment for a haircut.  I took the mass transit rail lines into the city for the first time in two months.

The Royal Ploughing Ceremony is an ancient Indian rite that spread throughout much of Southeast Asia long ago and marks the start of the rice growing season.  Although Thai people are overwhelmingly Buddhist, there are still a few old Hindu traditions, especially surrounding Thai monarchs, that involve Brahmin priests.  The date for this ceremony is set every year by these Brahmins using astrological formulas, and they are also central to the ritual itself.  Two magnificent white oxen are decorated, yoked, and led around a sacred field by Brahmins, ploughing a circle of furrows, while seeds of rice are tossed over the prepared ground. 

The ceremony is usually televised, with the King in attendance, and is quite an ornate pageant to see.  I didn’t see it on TV this year, as I was traveling into the city, and I suspect it was held without crowds because of the pandemic. 

The Thai governments are cautiously starting to re-open aspects of the lockdown.  Barber shops have just opened again, with strict regulations, so I scheduled a haircut appointment for Monday.  Since no other stores or cinemas are open, I left my backpack behind and only took a satchel and an umbrella.  The trains were quite empty at midday – although I hear that rush hours are more crowded again. 

As I returned, getting off at the station closest to home, the skies had darkened and the wind picked up in gusts.  It was a welcome coolness to our otherwise 100*F days.  I stopped in to my pharmacy for some things, and when coming out it started lightly raining.  I unfurled my umbrella and walked the kilometer home in the delightfully cool rainy breeze. 

-Zenwind. 
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06 May 2020

Vesak -- Buddha's Birthday


On this annual celebration (on certain lunar calendars), the events of Gautama Buddha’s birthday, enlightenment, and death are commemorated.  Siddhartha Gautama, the Shakyamuni Buddha in our history, was said to be born during this springtime Full Moon in Lumbini, Nepal (maybe 480 BCE, give or take).  Later, it was said that his historically important Enlightenment 35 years later happened on this same Full Moon in the same springtime month of Vesak.  And, according to further legend, 45 years later, after a full lifetime of fruitful teaching, Gautama died at age 80 on a Full Moon in this same springtime month of Vesak. 

I don’t know if all these Full Moon stories line up convincingly, but I do know that I certainly love to celebrate all Full Moons.  Anyway, Happy Birthday, Siddhartha, you psychologically adept and phenomenally insightful Buddha guy!  Thanks for imparting such incomparable wisdom! 

-Zenwind. 
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x

29 April 2020

Quiet


During the weekdays there is usually a rush of traffic going by into the main gate of the electric company just across the street, with dozens of buses, hundreds of cars, and a mass of foot traffic.  Before 08:00 and then around 16:00, it’s always noisy.  But it is much more subdued now, and most of the day is like a ghost town.  Tuk walks to work, about 200 meters, and out of her particular office crew that numbers over 40, only half a dozen are present these days.  Tuk lives close by, is “essential”, and she doesn’t find working-from-home very productive. 

After a hard morning rain, now everything is abnormally quiet.  The dripping of the eaves is all the music I need. 

-Zenwind. 
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25 April 2020

Rain


Today we had a refreshing thunderstorm come through.  Wind and hard rain.  It cooled things off wonderfully, and the air smells fresh.  Of course, the stifling heat will come back later, especially so whenever the sun comes out, but it was a welcome difference.  More rain should grace us in the next two days.  

"When the rain comes...."  Blessed coolness.  Zen delight. 

-Zenwind. 
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