29 October 2017

Farewell to a Great Monarch

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On Thursday 26 October, the entire kingdom of Thailand came pretty much to a stop for the Royal Cremation Ceremonies for the late King Rama IX, Bhumibol Adulyadej.  Cinemas were mostly closed.  Most markets and stores were closed, as were all banks, etc.  (The Rock Pub was closed for at least four nights!)  Television programming covered only the ceremonies. 

I had stocked up on food the day before, and Tuk and I watched the proceedings on TV all day into the night. 

Although the King died a year ago (13 October 2016) his mourning period was for over a year.  His body lie enclosed in an urn or coffin at the Grand Palace for this time, and thousands of people came to pay respect.  A special temporary crematorium was built at a nearby royal ceremonial ground.  The structure was huge and elaborate, with incredible artistic touches, and built to represent Mount Meru, the heavenly center of the world in Buddhist and Hindu mythologies. 

On Thursday the 26th, the urn was moved, via an ornate traditional cart in a huge procession, from the Grand Palace to the crematory site.  It was a slow march. 

The music:  A military band marched along in the funeral parade.  Since King Rama IX was a musician and a composer, some of his own compositions were mixed in with the more somber dirges.  There was even a bit of Jazz played early on in the march.  Taps played after dark at the cremation site. 

Attendees at the ceremonies:  There were dignitaries and folks from all over the world there.  There was royalty of all sorts. 

Late in the evening, toward the time of lighting the pyre, the mood lightened up a bit, with performances of traditional Thai dance and music out in front of the crematorium.  Then a Thai symphony orchestra started a live concert that went on until dawn.  As well as Classical standards they played many of the late King’s own musical compositions. 

I think the entire kingdom was exhausted the next day, Friday, from the breathless events of the previous day. 


King Bhumibol, Rama IX, will be remembered as “Father.”  The Moral Father of modern Thailand.  He reigned for 70 years, and although without any political power he had immense moral authority.  He fathered the people by his caring example.  

As I have written before, he never expected to be king when the monarchy was thrown into his lap by the death of his older brother, King Rama VIII.  Born in Cambridge, Mass., USA, he had been a student in Lausanne, Switzerland, where he grew up, majoring in French literature, Latin, Greek, and the sciences.  He was contentedly into photography and jazz music.  There is a famous photo of him as king in the late '50s/ early '60s sitting, with his queen, and in conversation with Elvis Presley (Elvis was in US Army uniform at the time).  I have seen this photo in Bangkok's Hard Rock Cafe and in The Saxophone pub.  

He is irreplaceable and will be sorely missed. 

-Zenwind. 

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